For me our week in Scotland ended with a big challenge, to traverse the Aonach Eagach ridge in full winter conditions (grade II). This is an awesome route with areas of total exposure including the ‘Crazy Pinnacles’. There are no opportunities for escape from this route, so it is completely committing. Regarded as one of the country’s classic routes, its completion was a major achievement for me. A big mountain day, ending with a well earned pint in the Clachaig Inn.

By Jack Nicholson (below)

The plan this day was a route from Glen Coe, decided the night before. After breakfast in the Logs [Fort Bill] I ventured outside to take in the air. The first thing I noticed was no wind, then I saw there where no clouds, infact it was Bluebird skys, the sun shining. I remembered the night before was clear and cold. Then I looked up at the Ben and the arete from Carn mor Dearg. After years and years of failed attempts,beaten back by storms and blizzards, the arete was calling again. I went inside and told Mark of our change of plan and I saw his face drop, I knew what he was thinking, bl**dy hell not again !!!

The snow was good as we set off and after the mind numbing accent of Carn mor Dearg we where looking down to the sharp arete and across to the awesome northface and summit of the Ben in perfect winter conditions.With crampons on the adrenalin kicked in and we where off like a shot across the arete, then came the hard leg aching climb up the final never ending slope to the summit. Shattered but elated and after years of waiting we had done it. Patience is a vertue.